Northeast BC Archives · The BC Ale Trail /category/northeast-bc/ Arrive thirsty, leave inspired. Thu, 09 Feb 2023 19:55:19 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.3.2 https://ef5pdbk7uqr.exactdn.com/app/uploads/2016/09/cropped-bc-ale-trail_favicon-a.png?strip=all&lossy=1&quality=90&webp=90&avif=80&sharp=1&resize=32%2C32&ssl=1 Northeast BC Archives · The BC Ale Trail /category/northeast-bc/ 32 32 Barkerville’s Painless Jones Schwarzbier Celebrates Black History Month https://bcaletrail.ca/barkervilles-painless-jones-schwarzbier-celebrates-black-history-month/ Thu, 09 Feb 2023 19:55:19 +0000 https://bcaletrail.ca/?p=39791 Quesnel’s Barkerville Brewing has brewed a special beer in honour of BC’s first licenced dentist, William Allen “Painless” Jones. Barkerville Brewing is celebrating Black History Month with the launch of a new beer called Painless Jones Schwarzbier. The Quesnel-based brewery, which is named after the nearby historic town of Barkerville and is located on the … Continued

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Quesnel’s Barkerville Brewing has brewed a special beer in honour of BC’s first licenced dentist, William Allen “Painless” Jones.

Barkerville Brewing is celebrating Black History Month with the launch of a new beer called Painless Jones Schwarzbier. The Quesnel-based brewery, which is named after the nearby historic town of Barkerville and is located on the Northeast BC Ale Trail, has a strong connection to BC history, with much of its branding and beer names associated with stories from our province’s past.

Painless Jones Schwarzbier - Barkerville Brewing
Painless Jones Schwarzbier from Barkerville Brewing in Quesnel BC

Painless Jones Schwarzbier is a dark German-style lager with rich, bread-like malts and a roasted, velvety character. A touch of traditional European noble hops is balanced by a slight sweetness and followed by the clean, dry finish typical of lagers.

A portrait of Dr. William Jones
Dr. William Jones (undated photo Photo courtesy of Barkerville archives)

Who Was “Painless” Jones?

William Allen Jones was born in North Carolina in 1831. His father Allen Jones reportedly bought his family’s freedom from slavery for $5,000 and moved them to Ohio. There, William and two of his brothers, John and Elias, all attended Oberlin College, one of the only U.S. colleges that were available to Black men and women at the time.

The three Jones brothers were part of a group of about 800 Black Americans who came north over a period of several months in 1858, responding to an invitation from the Colony of Vancouver Island.

Go Do Some Great Thing: The Black Pioneers of British Columbia by Crawford Kilian
Go Do Some Great Thing: The Black Pioneers of British Columbia by Crawford Kilian

In his book, Go Do Some Great Thing: The Black Pioneers of British Columbia, Crawford Kilian writes that the invitation was delivered on April 14, 1858, at a meeting at Zion Church in San Francisco, then the largest city on the west coast of North America, by Jeremiah Nagle, a landowner in the Vancouver Island colony and the Captain of the steamship Commodore, which made regular voyages between San Francisco and Victoria:

“Standing by the pulpit with maps of Vancouver Island, Nagle answered a rapid stream of questions about the colony. He also had with him a letter from ‘a gentleman in the service of the Hudson’s Bay Company of undoubted veracity,’ giving details about the colony and welcoming the Black Californians. This gentleman must have been the governor himself, James Douglas, but his letter does not appear to have survived.”

The three Jones brothers initially settled on Salt Spring Island, “but then with the lure of the Gold Rush, William and his youngest brother Elias headed to Barkerville to seek their fortunes as many people did at the time,” explained Fran Morrison, a director of the BC Black History Awareness Society. “We don’t know how successful they were, but we do know that sometime around 1864 or 1865 they both returned to the States.” Elias stayed there, but William undertook his Dental Studies and then returned to Barkerville and became its resident dentist.

When dentistry became recognized as a medical profession, William Jones was the first person to become certified as a dentist in British Columbia in 1886. He died of pneumonia in 1897. He was buried in the Williams Creek Cemetery. 

A replica sign outside of the Dentist Office at the historic Barkerville
Replica Sign for Dr. Jones’ dentist office at Barkerville (photo: Peter Schildwaechter)

The Historic Town of Barkerville  

Barkerville was the central hub of the Cariboo Gold Rush, a true “boomtown” named after William Barker who was one of the first miners to strike gold there in 1862. The town was all but destroyed by fire in 1868 but was rebuilt and continued to thrive for a time. By the turn of the 20th century, however, it was in decline. Barkerville was declared a National Historic Site of Canada in 1924 and a Provincial Heritage Property in 1958, which is when major restoration efforts began. Barkerville is now “the largest living-history museum in western North America.”

Medicinal bottles and dentristry tool chest at the Barkerville Dentist Office The Dentist's desk in the Barkerville dentist office Interior of the Barkerville dentists office

The reconstruction of the building that housed Dr. Jones’ dentist office was completed in 1961 with the assistance of the British Columbia Dental Association. The replica office includes a chair and a variety of dental instruments appropriate to the era, though none of them were owned or used specifically by Dr. Jones himself.

The patient's chair in the historic Barkerville Dentist Office
Barkerville’s replica dentist office.

Today, Barkerville Historic Town & Park is a popular tourist site that features more than 125 heritage buildings, period displays, satellite museums, restaurants and shops. Throughout the summer season, actors reenact historic characters, bringing the town to life for visitors. There are campgrounds and cottages for overnight accommodations.

Portrait of William Allen Jones by Gene Grooms
Portrait of William Allen Jones by Gene Grooms (1994); BC Black History Awareness Society Collection

Every February is Black History Month

The BC Black History Awareness Society was formed in 1994 to raise awareness about BC Black History. During Black History Month, the Society hosts events that include exhibits, book readings, concerts and tours.

A sign for the BC Black History Awareness Society at the Greater Victoria Public Library

The sxʷeŋxʷəŋ təŋəxʷ James Bay Branch of the Greater Victoria Public Library is home to a permanent art installation that connects to the digital exhibition BC Black Pioneers. Developed by the BC Black History Awareness Society, this exhibit features 20 stories, nine videos, and 86 gallery items, including photos, maps, and archival documents.


Hope Meets Action: Echoes Through the Black Continuum is an exhibit created by the BC Black History Awareness Society in partnership with the Royal BC Museum that retells the complicated history of Black British Columbians and highlights the contributions of Black leaders whose actions echo across the centuries. This exhibit is at the GVPL’s Central Branch (first and second floors) until the end of February.

a four pack of Black is Beautiful beer by Jackknife Brewing

Other Ways BC Breweries Support Black History Month

Kelowna’s Jackknife Brewing is making a batch of Black is Beautiful beer, with all proceeds going towards Black Lives Matter Canada as well as Access Pro Bono.

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EXPLORE BC Brewery Snapshot: Fox Mountain Brewing https://bcaletrail.ca/explore-bc-brewery-snapshot-fox-mountain-brewing/ Mon, 17 Oct 2022 17:36:03 +0000 https://bcaletrail.ca/?p=32704 Fox Mountain Brewing in Williams Lake is one of 6 breweries that collaborated on the new EXPLORE BC Peach Farmhouse Ale, a special release beer created in celebration of BC Craft Beer Month that is now available at select locations around British Columbia.   We asked the folks at Fox Mountain Brewing to tell us … Continued

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Fox Mountain Brewing in Williams Lake is one of 6 breweries that collaborated on the new EXPLORE BC Peach Farmhouse Ale, a special release beer created in celebration of BC Craft Beer Month that is now available at select locations around British Columbia.

Fox Mountain Brewing - Williams Lake - BC Ale Trail
Fox Mountain Brewing in Williams Lake, BC

 

We asked the folks at Fox Mountain Brewing to tell us a bit about their brewery — and to also let us know how they like to eat a peach. Because, you know, the beer has peaches in it.

1. What’s the story behind the name of your brewery?

Fox Mountain is the name of the mountain right across the road from the brewery. It’s a beautiful, dry Douglas Fir forest right in town that’s loaded with great mountain biking and hiking trails. It’s a real gem for Williams Lake. I live at the bottom of Fox Mountain and spend much of my free time there with my family, so there’s a personal connection as well.

Fox Mountain Brewing
The sunny patio at Fox Mountain Brewing in Williams Lake, BC (photo: Ben Haggar)

2. What sets your brewery apart from others in BC?

Other than distance? We’re the only brewery in Williams Lake. Our beers are awesome, but there’s no shortage of great craft beers in BC these days. I think what sets us apart is our taproom experience. We have great food, super friendly staff, and our beautiful patio. The brewery is perched up on a hill and we have an awesome view with consistently great sunsets. A few beers with friends and great homemade food on a sunny patio can’t really be beat. We’re also family friendly and have a dog friendly patio, so it’s great to be able to provide a location where everyone can gather and enjoy themselves.

Fox Mountain Brewing
The sunny patio at Fox Mountain Brewing in Williams Lake, BC (photo: Ben Haggar)

3. How do you interact with your local community?

We have had excellent support from the community since we opened in June 2020. This was early days of Covid which was pretty scary for us as a new business, but the community came out and stood behind us, braving the cold temperatures on the patio when that was the only option, and ordering lots of growlers and takeout. Now that we’ve weathered the worst of Covid we’re trying to give back where we can.

We work closely with the Williams Lake Cycling Club and help them with things like beer and food specials on trail maintenance days. We’re also donating prizes for bike-to-work week and offering discounts to people who ride in. Williams Lake is a big mountain biking town, so we look to support that wherever we can.

We’re also really excited about a new disc golf course that is going in at Boitanio Park, right next to the brewery. We’re working with the Williams Lake Disc Golf Association to sponsor one of the new baskets. We’re really excited to have a new disc golf course right in the middle of town.

Fox Mountain Brewing
Fox Mountain Brewing in Williams Lake, BC

4. Are there any unique challenges to brewing in your area?

We aren’t known as a great hop-growing region so we aren’t able to get out to see our local hop suppliers as much as I would like. Other than that, freight is an issue that all breweries have to deal with, but it did pose a challenge when the Fraser Canyon and the Coquihalla both washed out last year.

5. What did you bring to this collaboration (a unique ingredient, idea, technique?) or what does it mean to you to be part of this collaboration?

It was a lot of fun kicking around ideas for the collaboration beer and developing the recipe. We came together pretty quickly on a recipe that would showcase the best of BC. After that it was just a bit of fine tuning and everyone worked well together to come up with the final recipe.

We’re really excited to be involved in this collaboration as the beer will be available across BC. We currently only distribute within the Cariboo so we’re looking forward to showing people who may not have heard of us before that we make great beer.

Representatives from six BC breweries and the BC Ale Trail met up in person or virtually on the EXPLORE BC Peach Farmhouse Ale brew day on August 19.

6. What was your favourite part of the Brew Day?

Getting to meet and hang out with everyone. Being a relatively new brewery it was great to make connections with other breweries across the province.

7. What is your favourite way to eat a peach?

Fresh from the Farmer’s Market. You can’t beat a fresh peach!

EXPLORE BC Peach Farmhouse Ale


The EXPLORE BC Peach Farmhouse Ale is a collaboration between six breweries from across British Columbia. BC peaches present a beautiful golden-orange colour, while the Lærdal Kveik yeast and BC hops provide fruity, floral flavours above a clean rounded malt base that elevates the whole beer. Lastly, a pinch of BC sea salt makes this ale sparkle. This limited edition Peach Farmhouse Ale is a true representation of our province that pairs perfectly with BC’s natural beauty.

The EXPLORE BC Beer Series, brought to you by the BC Ale Trail in partnership with Destination B.C., celebrates the fall season with a new limited-edition craft beer, and new special offers to explore the province’s vast Ale Trail network. Created for BC Craft Beer Month, the EXPLORE BC Peach Farmhouse Ale, is a collaboration by six breweries representing all of the province’s major tourism regions, and produced by Ravens Brewing Company, will be available at select liquor stores, restaurants and craft breweries across the province.

“EXPLORE BC is an Official Mark of Destination BC Corp., used with consent.”

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A BC Beer Hunt: Roadtripping Up North to Ursa Minor Brewing https://bcaletrail.ca/roadtripping-up-north-to-ursa-minor-brewing/ Wed, 21 Sep 2022 16:30:09 +0000 https://bcaletrail.ca/?p=31757 With any road trip in BC, there are new breweries to experience and even to stay at. Our journey up through the Northwest Ale Trail included three nights staying near BC’s most remote craft brewery: Ursa Minor Brewing. Let the Ale-Trailing begin! August in BC is beautiful. With pandemic restrictions declining and air travel nightmares all … Continued

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With any road trip in BC, there are new breweries to experience and even to stay at. Our journey up through the Northwest Ale Trail included three nights staying near BC’s most remote craft brewery: Ursa Minor Brewing. Let the Ale-Trailing begin!

August in BC is beautiful. With pandemic restrictions declining and air travel nightmares all over the news, my family was looking for a late summer holiday that wouldn’t break the bank and didn’t require a plane. A road trip to regions unknown here in our own province seemed the perfect option.

Mountainview Brewing – Hope 

My husband’s Tetris-level packing skills were needed to get all our gear into our car with enough room to spare for our two kids and our 100-pound dog, Cooper. Our first day of driving took us from our home in south Surrey down Highway 1 through Hope and into the Fraser Canyon, then up past 100 Mile House until we reached our first night’s accommodation. Mountainview Brewing in Hope was new to us, so it became our first brewery stop.

Adam and Danielle Keil opened Hope’s first craft brewery during the first year of the pandemic–not an easy task. The small town of Hope, tucked in under the mountains’ shadows and bordering the Fraser River, is a rest stop for thousands of travellers each year, as well as a destination for outdoors enthusiasts. A craft brewery in town was past due. Located along Old Hope Princeton Way, just a quick detour off the highway, Mountainview Brewing is in an ideal location as well.

As we enjoyed our flights, a pool table provided entertainment for our 12- and 14-year old after they finished their kombucha (I always like to see quality non-alcoholic options in a brewery). I was intrigued by the light and tasty Dragon’s Back Caribbean stout, a summer beer named after the local Dragon’s Back hiking trail, but my favourites were the Green Hearts Young IPA and the Lost in the Woods Spruce Tip Pale Ale–both representative of this mountainous region.

Mountainview Brewing can be found on the Fraser Valley Ale Trail.


Fox Mountain Brewing – Williams Lake

There was a long stretch of beautiful landscape — hills, canyons, rivers–between Hope and our next brewery. By the time we arrived in Williams Lake, we were ready for some refreshments at Fox Mountain Brewing Co. Owner and head brewer Dave Reedman joined us on their patio for a chat about being the first brewery owner in the region.

Reedman recounted his path to brewery ownership and how his love of homebrewing spurred a desire to learn more. He eventually completed formal training at Brewlab in England before returning to Williams Lake, where he knew that the popular annual beer festival had fertilized a rapidly growing craft beer community. When Fox Mountain opened its doors in 2020, Reedman had envisioned a quiet, small event. Instead, he laughed, “We were slammed! There were people lined up down the front of the building.” 

Reedman took me through his brewhouse where his 6-tank system was housed and his young son was cleaning bottles for a bit of extra money. He values all the help he can get; it’s just Reedman and one assistant running the brewing side, although he has a great front of house staff and kitchen. We chatted about the beers that were the most popular locally: the pilsner and their Hillbilly Blond–both light and refreshing traditional styles that resonate with the city’s rural character.  

My husband and I ended up trying all the beers available–not a difficult task after a long day of travelling. My favourites were the Godspeed IPA and the Bluebird Saison. I’m a sucker for a good saison and this one delighted — full-bodied with coriander and citrus notes. Their popular Pump Track Hazy IPA was also excellent, with lots of mango and pineapple flavours.

Unfortunately, most southern residents of BC will have to travel if they want to sample some of Fox Mountain’s beers. While they do distribute as far south as Kamloops, the tasting room and local clientele take priority over distribution. “Right now we’re in ‘keep up’ mode!” says Reedman. Being popular is a good problem to have, but it does end up resulting in a lot of work for the small team at Fox Mountain. 

Fox Mountain Brewing can be found on the Northeast BC Ale Trail.


Deadfall Brewing – Prince George

The next day, we made our way up past Quesnel (stopping at Barkerville and Barkerville Brewing) to Deadfall Brewing, the newest craft brewery in Prince George. 

A friendly dog was guarding the entrance when I arrived since canine friends are welcome in the tasting room. In fact, everyone is welcome. When co-owner Brandon Baerwald, his wife Erin, and their two friends established Deadfall, inclusivity was a number one priority.  And you see this inclusivity in things like the accessibility of the tasting room itself and the free hygiene products in the bathrooms. 

The brewery was cool in the heat of the day, with beautiful images of flora and fauna on the walls. At the bar, the forest-green backsplash behind the handmade driftwood tap handles made me think of BC’s woodlands — a cherished feature of Prince George, where hiking, hunting, and forestry are economic drivers.

The Baerwalds are both science professors at UNBC, so it’s unsurprising that they found inspiration in the vibrant natural environment of Prince George. Nature’s ability to create life from death became a theme of the brewery. Even beer’s key ingredient — yeast — dies and comes back to life. This concept became the brewery’s theme.

“It’s beauty, but it’s dark,” says Brandon.

Graphic designer Skyler Punnett used this concept to design the brewery’s logo. The death’s hand reaching holding the stem of a large mushroom represents nature’s constant movement between death and life.

While Baerwald doesn’t possess a brewing certification, he did have plenty of professional brewing experience before opening Deadfall. He’s currently the only brewer, as well as the packager, deliverer, and front of house guy, and he likes it that way.

“Quality control!” he told me.

His perfectionism means that the beer is indeed high quality, but he admits he has to work hard to ensure that. Deadfall’s motto is “Brew no wrong,” and Baerwald follows his own advice. The tap list on that day included a Kölsch, a brown ale, a west coast IPA, a session ale, and a watermelon gose, and I thoroughly enjoyed each one. Baerwald’s choice to offer a Kölsch rather than a Pilsner or other light lager was unusual, but customers are receptive — the Kölsch is one of his top sellers. The watermelon gose, he said with a shrug, was almost out and he didn’t think he’d make it again. But half an hour later, I watched a customer buy two flats of it. It seems the Baerwalds may have to brew more beer than they bargained for — not a bad problem to have for a new brewery!

Deadfall Brewing can be found on the Northwest BC Ale Trail.


ursa minor brewing

Ursa Minor Brewing Burns Lake

The destination for our BC journey was Ursa Minor Brewing, located on Little Bear Ranch on the shores of Ootsa Lake. After a three-hour drive west from Prince George, a 15-minute ferry ride, and another hour of driving through dirt roads with no cell reception (we had to keep an eye out for “Brewery” signs along the road), we eventually saw the big red sign welcoming us to Ursa Minor Brewing.

We weren’t just there to visit the brewery though. Ursa Minor is part of Little Bear Ranch, a large property first purchased in the 1950s by the parents of Nathan Nicholas, who currently owns and runs the ranch with his wife Gwyn. His mother, Leona, still lives there in her own house and has some great stories that shouldn’t be missed if you visit. Over the years, the family has built barns, fields, houses, and cabins — and one of those cabins is now available as a holiday rental for those who need a break from traffic, noise, and all internet contact. The little red cabin is located maybe 100 feet from the lakeshore and is just a minute’s walk to Nathan and Gwyn’s log home and the brewery. Although it was built in the 1960s, the cabin’s plumbing and electricity have been updated and a solar power system now supplies hot water. 

But the cabin doesn’t feel modern; it’s like you’ve stepped back in time into the warm embrace of your grandparents’ home.

Real 1960s artefacts add detail to the cabin’s interior, from a tiny 1960s bottle of Pine-Sol to an old jar of Pond’s Cold Cream to the teal vintage refrigerator. Two cosy beds in the front sunroom area facing the lake plus a pull-out bed in the living room allowed the four of us to sleep very comfortably. 

 

Our two days and three nights on the ranch were spent swimming, paddling around in our inflatable dinghy and kayak, fishing from the shore in front of our cabin (with great success!), and exploring the property. We enjoyed giving the friendly pig, Wilson, spent grain snacks (follow him on Instagram @willythebrewpig), and the horses, donkeys, and farm dogs received many pets each time we passed them. Evenings were spent sitting outside the cabin by our bonfire and staring up at an astoundingly clear night sky. The silence was deep, and, to my suburban children who are used to constant noise, even unnerving. It is truly a space for contemplation. 

Ursa Minor Brewing was, of course, a central element of our stay, and we returned multiple times, trekking through the grass alongside the lake from our cabin to reach the little tasting room. Nathan doesn’t grow his own hops or barley, but he sources as many ingredients from his land as he can, like rhubarb, haskap berries, and juniper. His training as a chef is revealed in some of his creative brewing choices, as well as the weekly dinner he and Gwyn serve up to guests.

Some of my favourite brews at Ursa Minor were the Siberian Express Haskap Saison, the Ootsa Pogo Double IPA, and the Pigs Eye Rye Ale. Before we left, Nathan added one more beer to the list, which I thoroughly enjoyed: a soured version of a double IPA, a beer that was initially the product of yeast going off track, but which became popular with customers. And non-drinkers aren’t left out; homemade spruce tip iced tea and rhubarb soda were two of the non-alcoholic offerings available that weekend, and both were delicious — our kids preferred them to pop which is high praise!

Nathan and Gwyn are welcoming hosts who have cultivated a sustainable, simple, and family-oriented way of life on their property. We felt like family when we arrived, and we truly enjoyed our conversations with them as we learned about the history of the ranch. It was also a special time for the four of us as a family. Detached from our phones, laptops, school, and work, we could reconnect over good drinks and good food (including our fresh-caught trout from the lake). 

Ursa Minor Brewing can be found on the Northwest BC Ale Trail.


Lillooet Brewing

Lillooet Brewing – Lillooet

We regretted having to leave Little Bear Ranch on our third day, but we felt refreshed as we began our journey home back through Prince George and then south. While we couldn’t visit Prince George’s other craft breweries, Trench Brewing & Distilling and CrossRoads Brewing & Distillery, due to a staff event being held that day, we did have a tasty pint of the 1000 Peaks Blood Orange Witbier from Trench and the Fast Lane IPA from Crossroads while enjoying pizza at Betulla Burning

Our travels eventually took us down past Hat Creek Ranch (formerly owned by one of Vancouver’s first brewery owners, Charles Doering) through the Duffy Lake road and finally into the Fraser Canyon and to Lillooet. Here, we took a break to get a sneak peek at the soon-to-be-opened Lillooet Brewing Co, which is perched on a hill with a stunning view of the Fraser River below. 

Lillooet Brewing is the brainchild of Sam Quinlan, founder of HOOH Hops, and Sacha Bordas, brewer and builder. They finalized their purchase of the property — previously a local feed store — in March 2020, just before the pandemic crashed into their plans. However, over the past two years, they’ve worked consistently to establish their brewery’s brand, its values, and its core lineup of beers, so they now feel well positioned for a strong opening in early fall 2022.

Lillooet Brewing’s priorities are clear: environmental sustainability, local ingredients, and wildlife conservation. The brewery recycles water and does its own canning, and its recipes use as much locally produced hops and barley as possible. Both Quinlan and Bordas are outdoorsmen and enthusiastic about how the rural nature of Lillooet brings so many opportunities for encountering wildlife. Their beers reflect this enthusiasm, with each one named after a local species. The first two beers are the Western Screech Owl Hazy Pale Ale and the Mule Deer Lager.

Using a grant from Northern Development, the brewery partnered with the Lillooet Naturalist Society in a project called Lillooet Wild that provides educational resources on various local species, resources that will be linked to QR codes on the beer labels. Additionally, the tasting room will feature images of local wildlife by local artists and photographers, and more partnerships with other wildlife groups are in the works.

“I think of this [the brewery] like a National Park headquarters,” laughed Quinlan. 

The 12-tap tasting room will be accompanied by an outdoor full-service patio area and a picnic area licensed for liquor. So if you have dogs or kids that need some room, you can buy a six-pack from the tasting room and walk over to the picnic spot, where native plant species accompany the beautiful view of the river. More plans are in the works for Lillooet Brewing, such as producing certified organic beers and working with local barley farmers, but they’re well on their way to become one of Lillooet’s popular spots for tourists and locals alike — and of course, all animal lovers. 

Lillooet Brewing is not on the BC Ale Trail yet — but we hope to add it soon!


Returning Home

Our final quick stop was at the Beer Farmers in Pemberton, another brewery that prioritizes local and organic ingredients. Both dog- and family-friendly, and with some sheep on site and great views of the surrounding mountains, Beer Farmers is always worth a stop if you’re passing through Pemberton. It is mostly outdoors, though, so plan for the weather!

We returned to south Surrey with many new beers to add to our fridge and many more family memories. Now to plan our next BC road trip — there’s lots more to see (and drink) in this province.

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Barkerville and Beer: Where the Gold Rush Trail Meets the Ale Trail https://bcaletrail.ca/barkerville-and-beer-where-the-gold-rush-trail-meets-the-ale-trail/ Wed, 31 Aug 2022 08:00:41 +0000 https://bcaletrail.ca/?p=31474 In 1863, J.B. Chancellier and Nicolas Cunio opened Barkerville Brewery, Saloon, and Lodging House in the new mining town of Barkerville, British Columbia. The brewery quickly became popular – not just for its beer, but for the prize fights it hosted. Even in competition with at least five other nearby breweries, Barkerville Brewery was well … Continued

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In 1863, J.B. Chancellier and Nicolas Cunio opened Barkerville Brewery, Saloon, and Lodging House in the new mining town of Barkerville, British Columbia. The brewery quickly became popular – not just for its beer, but for the prize fights it hosted. Even in competition with at least five other nearby breweries, Barkerville Brewery was well loved by the townspeople for years. 

Exactly 150 years later, in 2013, a new Barkerville Brewing sprang up. But, due to the challenges of running a business in the historic town, the brewery was in Quesnel, an hour west of Barkerville. Cunio’s luxuriant mustache became part of the logo for the 21st century Barkerville Brewing.

barkerville brewing growler

I had the chance to visit both sites of Barkerville Brewing during a road trip my family took this past August. As we moved mentally and physically between the 19th century and our current time, I learned a lot about the present by means of the past. Thanks to the kindness and hospitality of Barkerville Historic Town and Park, my kids, my husband, and I had the chance to briefly experience life in a gold rush town. We followed it up with a visit to the new Barkerville Brewing in Quesnel, where we quenched our thirst, filled a Barkerville growler, and continued on our travels. 

barkerville street kerr & son's phoenix brewery

Travelling Back in Time

The town of Barkerville requires visitors to drive an hour through the windy, narrow Highway 26, in between mountains and creeks — and increasingly distant from any cell phone reception area. The sense of remoteness adds to the atmosphere of the town itself, which feels completely separate from the modern world. 

After leaving our dog Cooper in one of the shaded kennels available on site (there are no animals permitted in the historic town itself), we made our way down the main street of Barkerville, trying to take in everything. Near the entrance, the little Williams Creek Schoolhouse sits nearby the wooden church with its tall bell tower. Until later, we didn’t realize that this schoolhouse is on the site of the original Barkerville Brewing. Much further down the street, the Kerr & Son’s Phoenix Brewery remains intact, although sadly without actual beer for sale. 

tour in barkerville wake up jake in barkerville

A filling breakfast at Wake Up Jake energized us for the rest of our visit, which included a horse-drawn stagecoach journey around the town and a walking tour. Every morning this tour is hosted by one of Barkerville’s “interpreters,” who are people in costume as a person from Barkerville’s early years. These interpreters tell visitors about Barkerville from their character’s perspective, and if you see them walking around you can simply introduce yourself and start a conversation. Don’t be nervous! Barkerville’s interpreters are one of the best features of visiting the town.

part of the Chinese settlement in Barkerville
Barkerville has a rich history of Chinese settlement and is located in the shared ancestral territories of the Dakelh and Secwépemc peoples. Photo: Noëlle Phillips

That morning’s tour was hosted by a woman in a hoop skirt and bonnet who told many stories about the buildings we passed as we meandered down the main street, as well as tales relevant to the specific experiences of the town’s female residents. As a dancer myself, I found her stories about the indentured hurdy-gurdy dancing girls at the St. George Hotel particularly compelling. The modern Barkerville Brewing did as well, naming their Hurdy Gurdy Hibiscus Ale, an International Women’s Day Pink Boots Society collaboration, in honour of these dancers.

You’ll see many friendly interpreters in the town throughout the day. Some that we found particularly compelling were Lucie Sellars, Sintge, and Teacher Zhou. The real Lucie was a T’it’q’et woman who lived near Barkerville, and she is now performed by her great granddaughter Cheryl Chapman. Sintge is performed by Indigenous educator Mike Retasket, and Teacher Zhou by master Chinese musician Ben Zhao. Barkerville has a rich history of Chinese settlement and is located in the shared ancestral territories of the Dakelh and Secwépemc peoples, but the important roles of Indigenous and Chinese people in its development have often been overlooked. Lucie, Sintge, and Teacher Zhou can tell you a lot about the town’s history — and I guarantee you’ll learn something unexpected.

If you want to do some more hands-on learning, there are schoolhouse lessons available — and adults are welcome too! You can start at 11:30 in the Myatovic Cabin, with lessons in Chinese reading, writing, math and music. At 12:30, line up for class in the Williams Creek schoolhouse, where signs specify that children should be seen and not heard (I made sure my kids obeyed). Cultural education sessions on Chinese and Indigenous peoples are also available daily, along with technology demonstrations at the water wheel and the blacksmith’s shop.

panning for gold in barkerville panning for gold in barkerville

And of course, since Barkerville was a gold-mining town, our trip wouldn’t be complete without learning how to pan for gold. The guides at Eldorado Goldpanning and Gifts set us up at the water troughs with wide, shallow pans filled with rocks and pebbles. We were shown how to scoop and swish our pans until eventually all the rocks were gone and only the tiny gold fragments remained, which were put into tubes of water for us to take home as souvenirs. The process was tricky but I was proud when I finally saw those flecks of gold in my pan. In the shop we learned more about gold and were able to see and handle actual nuggets of gold mined in Barkerville — the priciest “rocks” I’ve seen in a while! 

After one more walk through Barkerville’s Chinatown and a hike to get a birds-eye view of the town, it was time to leave — with the hope that we would be back soon for a longer visit. I was advised that Barkerville takes about two days to fully experience, and I believe it. We didn’t get to check out the Theater Royal Show or the photography studio, and we needed more time to peruse the museums, the blacksmith shop, and pet the horses.


barkerville brewing
We stopped for a break at the current Barkerville Brewing in Quesnel. Photo: Noëlle Phillips

Gold Rush Beer for the Twenty-First Century

Before we continued our road trip, we stopped for a break at the current Barkerville Brewing in Quesnel. When Russ Ovans opened the brewery in 2013, he was inspired by all the local history he saw in Barkerville itself and wanted to find a way to honour that history. He also wanted to give BC’s northern interior a taste of the craft beer boom that was sweeping the province. In an interview with CAMRA around this time, Ovans described how he felt about craft beer: “It’s culture. It’s art. When done right, beer gives us an impetus to share the kind of local, authentic experiences that you only find within your neighbourhood pub.”

Barkerville opened its doors to the unknown, without a local craft beer community yet and with only four employees (they’re now up to 15). Their first beer was the 18K Amber Ale — a gutsy choice for their launch since its bitter backbone and dark colour made it a difficult sell to drinkers accustomed to Bud or Molson. That 18K amber eventually won three Canadian Brewing Awards, but building up their customer base was a gradual process. 

barkerville brewing
When Russ Ovans opened the brewery in 2013, he was inspired by all the local history he saw in Barkerville itself and wanted to find a way to honour that history. Photo: Noëlle Phillips

The tasting room has grown since then, now boasting 12 taps and a tasty food menu. In their current lineup of core beers, according to manager Meghan Lackey, the Sluice Juice Hazy Pale is the most popular province-wide, but among local drinkers, their Wandering Camel IPA and Roadhouse Blonde are the big hitters. But these are just a few of the brewery’s many offerings.

Since its opening, Barkerville has released 40+ beers that reflect their investment in local history — including the uncomfortable parts. Historian Brendan Bailey, whose work on Barkerville history has informed this blog post, indicates in his article for the Friends of Barkerville newsletter that the brewery is doing this difficult work “while still balancing the playful flair in marketing that is a requirement for any brewery hoping to stand the test of time.” He gives the example of Barkerville’s “wonderfully refreshing and discreetly potent Pearl River Lemon Ginger Pilsner …[which] celebrates the Chinese population of Barkerville and acknowledges the governmental discrimination faced by the Chinese right through the twentieth century.”

Although Russ Ovans sold the brewery in 2021 to Flight Partners, a BC-based adult beverage investment company, everything on the ground at Barkerville Brewing remains the same. You might step into the old Phoenix Brewery building in the town of Barkerville itself, but you’ll be disappointed if you’re wanting an actual beverage. Make it a full day trip with a visit to the historic town then over to Quesnel for a flight at Barkerville Brewing. It’s a BC history lesson with BC refreshments, and both are can’t-miss stops if you’re travelling north. 

Historical context for this article was sourced the Barkerville Historic Town website and this essay:
Bailey, Brendan. 2022. Essay: “Stake Your Claim: the 1860s Barkerville Brewery of yore staked rich ground for the Barkerville Brewing of today.” Friends of Barkerville Cariboo Goldfields Historical Society Newsletter. Issue 1, Volume 21, Summer 2022.

Barkerville Brewing can be found on the Northeast BC Ale Trail.


Family Friendly Activities in Quesnel

Mountain Biking at the Wonderland Network in Quesnel - Throughout Time Photography
Mountain Biking at the Wonderland Network in Quesnel (Throughout Time Photography)

Quesnel is home to amazing mountain bike trails with a kid-friendly beginner loop at the Wonderland Network, as well as some new, more advanced trails.

Pinnacles Provincial Park - Quesnel
Pinnacles Provincial Park near Quesnel, BC

Pinnacles Provincial Park is a nice, short hike, with great views of the hoodoos and a view over Quesnel, it’s only 10 mins from downtown.

Dragon Lake - 6ix Sigma
Dragon Lake in Quesnel, BC (Credit 6ix Sigma)

Dragon Lake is great for exploring by kayak, paddleboard, canoe or boat. It can be accessed from a public boat launch or from Legion Beach.

Photo: Throughout Time Photography

The Quesnel Museum has kid-friendly activities. It is adjacent to LeBourdais Park which includes a splash park and the city’s best playground.

Photo: Throughout Time Photography

The post Barkerville and Beer: Where the Gold Rush Trail Meets the Ale Trail appeared first on The BC Ale Trail.

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